Vetements - 浪漫新Normcore

图片来源：Indigital把1990年代初期的邋遢文化与醒目的阔肩造型以及80年代夺人眼球的色彩糅合在一起，可是个新鲜的概念。关于1970年代元素复归流行我们已经看到太多太多了，但那个时代的精神似乎不是一个伍德斯托克式的奇思怪想可以涵盖的。图片来源：Indigital在这场Vetements秀上看不到任何没完没了的嬉皮风踪影，相反，这场秀被邋遢文化概念推动着加速前进：大廓形、大胆的用色以及宽大的方肩设计。当然，它们看起来颇似Margiela的风格，因为Vetements设计团队的领袖Demna与GuramGvasalia兄弟曾在John Galliano接管前在Martin Margiela工作过。图片来源：Indigital这场秀在巴黎市中心一家俗艳的中餐馆举行，由一位穿着印有DHL公司logo的黄T恤、故意打扮得不像个模特的男士开场。随后被快递来的是一袭Vetements草绿色套装与短裙，那西装上衣的肩膀大得有多夸张，裙子就短得有多夸张，此外还有菱格纹图案针织衫搭配西装外套，全部采用不对称剪裁，十分引人注目。图片来源：Indigital我期待能看到些更加具有地下精神的东西，或许是表达弥漫在欧洲的关于穷富国家差距的巨大愤懑。希腊和西班牙在政治上已经左倾，而在英国一位经验老道的社会主义者作为政治领袖上了台。然而我却看见了用大胆鲜艳的橙色尼龙夹克或把男式条纹衬衫拉长成裙子来传达的乐观主义精神，而不是愤怒。那些彷如从奶奶的厨房里翻出来的围裙一样的植物系印花非常迷人。色彩缤纷的不对称剪裁系带皮革外套搭配牛仔裤同样十分抢眼，而把传统运动装改变尺寸或比例的做法亦然。图片来源：Indigital互联网将设计师们推入了公共视野，即便是相当地下先锋派的设计师也是如此。我忍不住回想起了Martin Margiela早年的秀，同样是在巴黎市郊的贫瘠之所，观众席中混杂着年轻的移民后代、失业人群和零零星星的记者。如今每一场秀都会被迅速上传到Instagram，仿若坐着投石机般飞速进入大众的视线。而Vetements已入围LVMH设计师大奖的决赛名单。图片来源：Indigital我希望这个年轻的品牌能够有足够的时间来发展出自己的时尚风格：大胆、疯狂、浪漫版本的normcore风，而不要太快落入成名时装屋那坚硬、犀利的窠臼。Picture credit: IndigitalThe idea of melding a grunge attitude from the early 1990s with the bold shoulders and look-at-me colours of the 1980s is refreshing. So much has been done to bring the 1970s back into fashion - yet the spirit of the moment seems bolder than Woodstock whimsy can contain.Picture credit: IndigitalThere was nothing to suggest that endless hippie trail at Vetements. Rather, the show was propelled by the idea of grunge on speed: big shapes, bold colours and those square shouldersOf course it also seemed a bit Margiela - since brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia, the Vetements team leaders, worked with Martin Margiela before the brand's current era with John Galliano at the helm.Picture credit: IndigitalThe show, held in a kitsch Chinese restaurant in the hinterlands of Paris, opened with a man -deliberatelynot a model -wearing a yellow T-shirt with the DHL delivery company logo. What Vetements itself then delivered was a grass-green suit with skirt as tiny as jacket shoulders were huge, and other tailoring with diamond-patterned knits that was off-kilter and striking.Picture credit: IndigitalI was expecting something more underground, perhaps expressing the festering rage across Europe about the haves and have-nots. Greece and Spain have moved politically to the left and in the UK a veteran socialist has emerged as a political leader. YetI saw optimism rather than anger in a bold orange nylon jacket or a men's striped shirt elongated to a dress.Floral patterns, as if made from aprons found in great-grandma's kitchen, were charming. So were off-kilteracid shades coming out among a belted leather coat over jeans, and other conventional sportswear with a change to size or proportion.Picture credit: IndigitalThe internet propels designers -even supposedly underground ones - into the public arena. I couldn't help thinking back to Martin Margiela's earlier shows, held in barren places also on the outskirts ofParis with an audience of immigrant kids, unemployed people and a sprinkling of journalists. Now every show is catapulted immediately onto Instagram (not least by myself). And Vetements was picked up by LVMH as a finalist for their designer prize.Picture credit: IndigitalI hope that this label has time to develop their fashion look -a bold, crazy, romantic version of normcore - without falling too soon into the hard, sharp embrace of the fashion establishment.